September 12

On the way from the ferry to Barb’s house in Delta, I stopped and picked up Vic – a woman I met at a knitting group in Guelph. She had contacted me suggesting we meet when she learned I would be in Vancouver, but her job – as a physician at VGH – would not allow this to happen when I was camped there for the week. So we grabbed an hour or two midday. I was so pleased that she’d contacted me! I picked her up as she lives near VGH and there was no way I could park the whole rig in that neighbourhood. We drove to a mall, found a coffee shop, pulled out our knitting, and proceeded to catch up. What an amazing young woman she is! Heading into her second fellowship, her aim is to take her talents and education down to the lower east side and help those who need it most. I couldn’t be more proud of her! It was so nice to catch up on plans for the future (hers and mine) and plans for knitting as well. She hopped on the Skytrain back to her apartment, and I headed over the bridge to Delta.

I parked in Barb’s driveway with no problem – I gained experience and confidence in the intervening weeks. After loading her machine with my laundry (that’s what sisters are for!) we went out to a restaurant for Indian food. The fish pakoras were memorable in a good way. The chicken was memorable in not quite such a good way (at least for Barb and me). You can’t win them all!

Sunday we went down to 4^th Avenue to Connie’s Cook House for Chinese, and were joined by Meghan, Lauren, and James. The food was fabulous this time – most notably the black bean cod, the deep fried tofu, and the delicious beans (yes, Barb, I do like beans when they are cooked just so and with a lovely sauce).

Then we went to the Bard on the Beach. James and Lauren made other plans, but Meghan came with us to see Coriolanus. The theatre was a tent in the tradition of Shakespearean summer theatre complete with turrets and flags. I knew absolutely nothing about this play and was doubtful that I’d find it enjoyable. I only know it would be filled with lots of fighting. Fortunately, Chris had downloaded the synopsis which I read before they started, but even without that, the acting was so good I think I would have followed the storyline anyway. The fight scenes (and there were many) were choreographed like dream sequences. I thoroughly enjoyed it!

Views from my bench looking towards downtown Vancouver, waiting for the 'tent' to open, and then views of the tent and stage:

After a nightcap, we said our goodbyes, and I turned in. In the morning just as I was set to leave, Barb was leaving for work and I was able to give her one last hug. It was so good to be able to spend time with friends and family. I’m a big sad about leaving, but I’m also looking forward to being on the road on my own again, and beginning to look forward to the fall/winter and what they might hold for me in my new ‘retired’ state.

I set off in rain, gassing up in Chilliwack, and said a wet goodbye to the Lower Mainland and its ugly traffic. That I won’t miss.

Soon I was through the valley and past Hope, this time taking the southern route (Highway 3) through Manning Park. A person could spend weeks exploring this park! It must be similar in size to Algonquin and it is certainly wild. It was a wet and beautiful trip.

Then as the rain became more intermittent, I transitioned from a dense rainforest to a drier landscape with gorse dotting the mountainsides. I found a campsite early – at Stemwinder PP – since I hadn’t slept well the previous night. I had a relaxing afternoon and evening knitting and reading, and got an early night. But I did manage to see the moon rising over the cliff opposite the Similkimeen River.

Sky, mountain, and water - sometimes the beauty of it all made me gasp.

 View from my campsite at Stemwinder PP.

Campsite at Stemwinder:

This morning I got up and made coffee only to find that my cream had gone sour, so I broke camp in the rain and headed out. The road is fierce! Twisting and turning, through one summit after another. I stopped keeping track of the height of each summit, but the fact that my ears were popping all day told me I’d been making some significant altitude changes! The peaks were wreathed in cloud which wisped down into the valleys, and occasionally the sun peaked through. I found a coffee roastery where I had a good brew and bought a breakfast sandwich.

Then came the wineries and fruit farms! I didn’t realize that they extended this far south – but for miles, they lined the highway. The trees were laden with fruit. I found it difficult to pull over, and in some cases they were still closed as it was early, so I sadly didn’t get any fresh apples. When I finally pulled over I bought a small basket of apples from an RV camp store – which turned out to have been either last year’s crop or windfalls – inedible! More fool me! Now I’m really hungry for a good apple. Of course once I got to Grand Forks where I stopped for groceries (and a summit away from the fruit growing area) the apples were all from Washington State. What a strange country we live in! Why would a grocery not want to buy Canadian produce? Why would people NOT think that was important? I realize that the US is closer and more accessible at that point, but it would not be that hard to truck the fruit across the summit I just drove.

Towns of note were Osoyoos which was quite the big town – and had a housing development to the east called Osoyoos Mountain Estates. Quite the pricey land I suspect – and Grand Forks which is a very nice small town with an interesting downtown. I like it better.

I tried to stay at a park near Grand Forks, but it turned out not to have camping, so I ended up at Texas Creek PP on Christina Lake. After a lovely swim in the lake and a shower, I spent the afternoon – which had cleared – at my site relaxing. Tomorrow I head to Fernie to try and find the church my grandfather was married in!

Well, I didn’t quite make it to Fernie. These roads are demanding! I stayed on the Crowsnest Highway through Creston. The Creston Valley opens up quite suddenly and is very beautiful. At one point the fields were dotted with cattle and framed behind by the Rocky Mountains – it would have been a stunning shot had I been able to pull over! But you’ll just have to imagine the blue sky, green fields – and no power lines to mar the view. More fruit in Creston, and again I didn’t get around to stopping.  I camped at Kikkomun Creek PP – a lovely spot with a dry pine forest. My site looks down on a little lake. When I woke, it was to 8 degrees and sunny. I have the heat on in the camper as a drink my coffee. Fernie is just around the corner and I’ll spend time there today.

Views of the Rockies as I leave my campsite:

I thought Creston was my favourite spot until I got to Fernie! This place really has my heart. Maybe it's the history of my family here, and it was meant to be.

I've been looking for the church my grandfather was married in - Knox Presbyterian - in 19000. Here is what I found:

Since this was built in 1909 it can't have been this building. Then online I learned that Fernie only came to be in 1897, a few years before my grandfather came here from Fort Steele to get married. The whole town was destroyed by fire twice - once in 1904 and again in 1908 - so this church was built after the second fire and its unlikely that the original Knox survived.

I'm in an internet cafe called Mugshots and now I'm off to tour the town and look for Farquharsons and Cranes! I'll post what I learn next time.